Day 30. Led astray by the Bradys of Donegal

Right. The Bradys and their mate Ray took me out in Letterkenny and then took me along to the GAA game in Ballybofey. Armagh v Donegal. I had no idea about the rules, or what constitutes a foul. Neither - apparently - did the referee, but I can only take the word of the crowd for that. The crowd is all mixed in, and really, despite a great deal of passion, theres no element of violence erupting. Do not talk to me about the English being how they are because of an 'island mentality.' Please. The real shock for me was the singing of the Irish National Anthem. I'm no nationalist or patriot of any flavour, but this was so moving I was completely taken by surprise and genuinely moved to tears. Everyone in the stadium turned to look at a single flag flying in the corner of the ground and the Anthem was sung at almost a whisper. Apparently the Tricolour has been hijacked by certain political parties in much the same way the St. George's Cross has been, but there seemed to be no element of this here. It was genuinely the biggest surprise of the trip so far. No wonder I often cringe as God Save the Queen is yelled out almost as a competition as to who can sound the most angry.

Anyway. it's all about style, not sentiment, I guess. Other people would probably feel the other way...

So, I don't know really what to say to the Brady family. They raised me loads of €s, paid for all my food and drink and properly made me feel at home. Thanks to Ray, too, for explaining what was going on in the game. Riding round the Diamond on the bike while they drummed up a good wad of sponsorship was good fun, but I do get dead nervous when teenage kids ride the bike... maybe I should be more careful with it now I'm so close to home.

Thanks to Jim White (the manager of the Abbey Hotel), Michael Breslin of Dom's Pier 1 and Adrian McGuire who all sponsored me generously in Donegal.

Day 26. Belmullet - Ballina. 48.6 miles 4 hours 20

We left the B&B at about 12. Sleeping in was inevitable after last night! Maureen's son Kieran drove us into town to pick our bikes up and we desided to eat at The Anchor again as we were both struck with the munchies. Some club sandwichhes hit the spot and Tom Talbot the owner turned up just nin time to tell us again our money was no good in his bar. Thanks Tom! The boys in the rib had set off at 10 so they're made of tougher stuff than me, but then fireman are probably well used to getting woken up when they really should be sleeping.

A largerly un-eventful ride save for getting blown up-hill again, seeing all the anti-Shell protesters east of Belmullet, and stopping at some truly vertical cliffs at Ceide Fields, we really pushed hard for the last 18 miles. After all this wind resistance training, I can really get a wiggle on now on this bike. Also, after swapping for a mile or so with Aiden, I realised how safe you feel on a tallbike and how small a normal bike is. Bizarre.

Anyway. We're in Ballina, Liverpool lost so I'm happy, its bedtime...zzz. Sligo tomorrow!

Day 20. Doolin - Galway. 47.2 Miles, 4 hours 33

Right. Day 19 was depressing. Wind, rain, mist, no view at Moher after a bus ride. The hostel was full of Germans and French and other people congratulating each other in pidgin English at how great the other nation's travellers are. Ahem.

I want to meet Irish folk on this trip, predominantly. Spare me from back-packers and other planet-destroyers. Guess I'm not too diferrent in that I'm a tourist, and there ain't no getting around getting round, etc, but I left Doolin bored of tourists. Seriously. I did not hear one Irish voice on my side of the bar last night. How sad. Kerry wasn't like that. I know I'm practically as English as anyone, but 15 miles from my mother's birthplace, I felt a long way from home...

In a flat mood, I set off towards Galway, after tossing up the advantages of getting a a ferry to the Arran Island and then over to Galway. I decided to head inland a little and see some of the Burren and hope the wind wasn't so bad inland. I've heard that wind has driven sailors mad in the past. I can see why. Relentless hard work and fear will mess with anyone's mind...

Anyway. I had the 4 seasons in one day thing today, and I think my plan to avoid the coast a little was a good one. There's no point in photographing the Burren. it's just too odd and has to be seen to be believed...

Anyhow... I had a first today. Graham calls a road in Scotland the Electric Brae. It looks like you're going up hill, but you're going down. I had a similar thing. The wind blew me uphill. Bizarre. I stopped pedalling, and freewheeled up hill for 100 metres. Hmmm.

Galway. one-way systems, exciting, pretty, and no place to be alone. Also full of back-packers...

Oh, I'm in Connacht! Only Ulster and back into Leinster and I'm done. It'll take me 3 weeks...

Day 11. Waterville - Milltown 42 miles ish. Bike computer doesn't like rain!

Luckily, I'd done the worst climb of the ring of Kerry last thing yesterday: Coomakista Pass is only about 300 metres, but you start at sea level, and, well, with the horrendous head-wind which really must have been near-gale force at times (that's 7 on the Beaufort Scale, readers) i was doing 3.5-5 miles an hour all the way up it, only to find the hostel in town was shut down, the B&B was a little spartan, and the pub had a loud-mouthed Londoner with tourettes in it. Before I got there. Anyway... that's yesterday evening. I set out after a ridiculously early check-out. 0930, into cold rain. Nasty. the wind wasn't as strong as the day before, and as I knew I'd be heading inland after 10 miles or so, I was happy to have it at my back for most of the day. I found a library with internet access, but the PC worked so badly that it could have been set up by Prav Gupta. (in-joke for vermin).

Disgruntled, and still unable to work out why these blogs appear to be out of synch (any ideas Mikey?) i rode off and met the German couple on their bike tour that Rebecca had told me about. They had so much kit strapped to their bikes that I was moving about 50% faster than they could. Nice couple, but where's the fun in that?

Nayway. The cloud was low enough to obscure the views accross to the Dingle peninsula, and if I'm honest, the traffic on Inveragh was so heavy and fast at times to spoil it as a cycling route. I did get a glimpse of Inch Beach where Keith and Jane went on their honeymoon and I'm keen to see it properly as everyone says how gorgeous it is.

I stopped for a cup of tea in Glenbeigh as I was fed up of the drizzle, and it was there the day improved. I met Jill and Wilkie (proof that not everyone whose name sounds that way isn't best avoided, ignored or worse) and they recognised my bike from the paper straight away. Being a family of cyclists - their sons Louis and Michael race (I think Ava their daughter is much more keen on her dancing), they were keen to find out about the trip. 3 minutes later, I was offered a bed for the night and the rest is history.

Riding through Kilorglin on the way here I met my first traqffic jam since Dublin. I also met Steve, my first Leicesterfarian, from Huncote. He's left the M69 corridor to live in Kerry and he's been here for 9 years. I can see why, but, oh, I'd miss the curries.

I'll be headed for Dingle when I leave their house, which from where I sit, I can see Carauntoohil from the window. Thanks guys!

Day 1... Dublin to Brittas Bay

Last night could be described as a Big Night... Eileen and her friends and Mike & Lara all made sure I was shown a good night in Dublin...

This morning I felt distinctly worse for wear and, yes, I know whose fault that is...

The first job was to pick up Eileen's new bike from the UCD bike shop. There I met Rob, possibly the most entertaining man I've ever met in the bike trade. Just go and buy something from him and you'll know why. Especially if he sees your mobile phone and doesn't like it...

Anyhow, Eileen led me through the insane one-way systems of Dublin on her new bike to our start point at St. Stephen's Green. Eileen's friend Catherine was to ride off with us, and Mike came to see me off... so far so good.

A guy from Chicago came up to me and asked me how long I had the tallbike... There's a big tallbike culture there apparently, and he knows some of the guys who ride them...

Anyway... Catherine is a force of nature and no mistake. What a star... If she were doing the ride she'd raise about 1000 Euros a day. She got me a free SIM card from the o2 shop, a free lunch from IN in Dalkey (which was really VERY good) and has been trying to drum up sponsorship and places to stay all over the place... Thanks! Shame she won't be in Dublin on my return, I reckon I owe her a beer...

So, after spending ages pootling out of Dublin and around Dalkey, I set off on my own... After being warned that the coast road was VERY hilly, I set off only to find I was in my easiest gear within 3 minutes. I spent a lot of time in that gear, if truth be told... The Hill out of Wicklow was the toughest today. I'm sure there is MUCH worse to come!

However... I have to say I couldn't have been luckier with my second hosts! Eily & Conor live in a beautiful extended cottage in Brittas Bay and, well, I'm living in complete luxury here. Really comfortable and I could easily get used to their lifestyle! I cannot thank them enough for their 'nothing is too much trouble' hospitality... they're drumming up sponsorship from their friends as I sit at there computer with my kit in their washing machine and a beer by my side. Amazing!

I'm very tired after my 46.5 miles. As if it needs saying...

I do feel a little bad that I didn't stop and talk to the family at Wicklow Head. I got a big round of applause and the offer of a drink, but I was completely exhausted and just wanted to finish the day's ride. Loads of folk have been waving, hooting, talking and just generally making me feel really welcome, and the drivers have been really patient too. I like it here.

Oh, one thing... the coast road? It's a LONG way from the coast in places... Short day to Enniscorthy tomorrow to see my aunt and uncle...